°ü·Ã ÀÚ·á >>>  ¿ø¼® >>> 16. ±¤ÅÃµÈ ´ÙÀ̾î¸Õµå (Polished Diamond)

 

6) »ö (Color)

 °üÂûÀÚ (The Observer)


´«ÀÇ ±äÀåÀ» ¿ÏÀüÈ÷ Ç®¾î¾ß ÇÑ´Ù.
 

 ºû (The Light)

  • ºûÀº Æò±Õ°íµµ¾Æ·¡¿¡¼­ÀÇ ÇѳªÀý ¸¼Àº ºÏÂÊÇϴÿ¡¼­ »ê¶õµÇ´Â ºû°ú °°¾Æ¾ß ÇÑ´Ù: ¹æ»çµÇ´Â û»ö¿¡´Â ½ºÆåÆ®·³(spectrum)ÀÌ °è¼ÓÇؼ­ dzºÎÇÏ°Ô ¹æÃâµÈ´Ù.
  • ³×¿Â µî(neon tube)µéÀº ±ÇÀåÇÏÁö ¾Ê´Âµ¥(³ª»Ý), û»ö¿¡¼­ ¹æÃâµÇ´Â ¼±µéÀÌ ÀϺΠ´ÙÀ̾î¸ÕµåµéÀÇ Çü±¤(fluorescence)À» ÀÚ±ØÇϱ⠶§¹®ÀÌ´Ù. ½ÉÁö¾î »ö ¿Âµµ(colour temperature) 7,000°K (Kelvin)µµ ¿ª½Ã ±ÇÀåÇÏÁö ¾Ê´Â´Ù. ÃÖ»óÀÇ ·¥ÇÁ(lamp)´Â 6,500 Kelvin »ö ¿Âµµ¸¦ Áö´Ï°í CIE (International Commission on Illumination, ±¹Á¦Á¶¸íÇÐȸ) Ç¥ÁØ¿¡ ÀûÇÕÇØ¾ß ÇÑ´Ù.
  • Àڿܼ±(ultraviolet)ÀÌ Ç³ºÎÇÑ ÇÞºû(daylight)(¹Ù´Ù ¶Ç´Â »ê)Àº ´ÙÀ̾î¸ÕµåÀÇ ¾ç»óÀ» ¹Ù²Û´Ù.

    ¢Ñ °ü·Ã ÀÚ·á >>> ±â±â »ç¿ë >>> 3. ¼Õ½¬¿î º¸¼® ÆǺ° >>> ºûÀÇ Çüŵé (Types of light)

 µ¹ (The Stone)

  • µ¹Àº ±ú²ýÇØ¾ß ÇÑ´Ù (´õ·¯¿î ȯ»óºÎ´Â ´ÙÀ̾î¸Õµå¸¦ ¼±¸íÇÏÁö ¾Ê°Ô ÇÏ¿© ±× ¾ç»óÀ» ¹Ù²Û´Ù).
  • û»ö ¿¬ÇÊ ÈçÀûÀÌ ÀÖ´Â µ¹µéÀ» ÁÖÀÇÇØ¾ß Çϴµ¥, ÆÛºô¸®¾ð(pavilion)¿¡ µµÆ÷ÇÑ °ÍÀÌ´Ù (»öÀ» Æò°¡Çϱâ ÀÌÀü¿¡ ÀÌ ÈçÀûµéÀº Áö¿öÁø´Ù).
  • µ¹À» ºÎÂø(set)µÇ¾î¼­´Â ¾ÈµÈ´Ù. 

 ¼ø¼­ (Procedure)

  • µ¹ÀÇ »öÀº GIA (Gemological Institute of America) ÀÎÁõÀÇ Ç¥Áؼ®(master stone)°ú/¶Ç´Â ±¤ÅÃµÈ ´ÙÀ̾î¸ÕµåÀÇ »öÀÇ µî±ÞÀ» Á¤È®ÇÏ°Ô ¸Å±â´Â »öä°è(colorimeter)¸¦ ÀÌ¿ëÇÏ¿© °áÁ¤ÇÒ ¼ö ÀÖ´Ù.
  • Diamond colour observation¹Ì¸® Á¢¾îµÐ ¼ø¼ö¹é»öÀÇ Á¾ÀÌ (»ö ½ÃÇè µî±ÞÁö)¿¡ ´ÙÀ̾î¸Õµå¸¦ µÎ°í °üÂûÇϴµ¥, ÆÛºô¸®¾ð(pavilion)¿¡ ´ëÇÏ¿© ´ë·« 30°ÀÇ ÀԻ簢(incidence angle)·Î °üÂûÇÏ¿©¾ß ºÒ²É(fire)¿Í ±¤ÈÖ(brilliance)ÀÇ ¿µÇâÀ» ¹ÞÁö ¾Ê´Â´Ù.
  • Ç¥ÁØ »ö µî±Þ ´ÙÀ̾î¸Õµå (master  colour grading diamond)´Â ºñ-Çü±¤ÀÇ ´ÙÀ̾î¸Õµå·Î, ½ÃÇèÇÏ°íÀÚ ÇÏ´Â ´ÙÀ̾î¸Õµåµé°ú °°Àº Å©±âÀÇ ³»ºÎÀûÀ¸·Î ±ú²ýÇϸç(±â²¯ÇØ¾ß <<intelligent>>ÀÇ VS2) Á¤È®ÇÑ ºñÀ²(proportion)À¸·Î ¸¸µé¾îÁø °ÍÀÌ´Ù.
    ¢Ñ VS2 => 5) Åõ¸íµµ(Clarity)

    ¸¸¾à¿¡, ¾Æ·¡¿Í °°Àº °÷¿¡ À§Ä¡ÇÏ´Â »ö µî±Þ Ç¥Áؼ® <a>¿Í <b>¸¦ °®°í ÀÖ´Ù¸é,

    loose diamonds<a>¿Í °°°Å³ª ³ôÀº »öÀÇ ´ÙÀ̾î¸Õµå´Â Àû¾îµµ <F>ÀÌ´Ù.
    loose diamonds<b>¿Í °°°Å³ª ³ôÀº »öÀÇ ´ÙÀ̾î¸Õµå´Â Àû¾îµµ <H>ÀÌ´Ù.
    loose diamonds<a>¿Í <b>»çÀÌÀÇ »öÀÇ ´ÙÀ̾î¸Õµå´Â Àû¾îµµ <G>ÀÌ´Ù. ÀÌ»óÀûÀΠǥÁØ »ö µî±Þ ´ÙÀ̾î¸ÕµåµéÀº µÎ °³ÀÇ µî±ÞµéÀÇ °æ°è¿¡ Á¤È®È÷ À§Ä¡ÇÑ´Ù. ¿¹¸¦ µé¸é, µ¹<X>´Â Exceptional White(E)¿Í Rare White(F)ÀÇ µî±ÞµéÀÇ °æ°è¿¡ À§Ä¡ÇÑ´Ù.Master stones

 °á°ú (Results)

 

Exceptional White +
Exceptional White
(¶Ù¾î³­ ¹é»ö)

D
E

¹Ì¸® Á¢¾îµÐ ¼ø¼ö¹é»öÀÇ Á¾ÀÌ (»ö ½ÃÇè µî±ÞÁö)¿¡ ÀÖ´Â ´ÙÀ̾î¸Õµå´Â °ÅÀÇ »ç¶óÁ® ¹ö¸°´Ù.

Rare white +
Rare white
(µå¹® ¹é»ö)

F
G

Ãø¸é¿¡¼­ ¹àÀº »öÁ¶(tint)¸¦ °¨ÁöÇÒ ¼ö ÀÖ´Ù.

White
(¹é»ö)

H

Ãø¸é¿¡¼­ »öÁ¶¸¦ °¨ÁöÇÒ ¼ö ÀÖÁö¸¸, Á¤¸é¿¡¼­´Â º¸±â ¾î·Æ´Ù.

Slightly Tinted White
(¾à°£ »öÁ¶°¡ ÀÖ´Â ¹é»ö)

I - J

Á¤¸é¿¡¼­ »öÁ¶°¡ º¸ÀδÙ.

Tinted White
(»öÁ¶°¡ ÀÖ´Â ¹é»ö)

K - L

Á¤¸é¿¡¼­ »öÁ¶¸¦ ½±°Ô º¼ ¼ö ÀÖ´Ù.

Tinted Colour
(»öÁ¶°¡ ÀÖ´Â »ö)

M - Z

Á¤¸é¿¡¼­ »öÁ¶¸¦ ¾ÆÁÖ ½±°Ô º¼ ¼ö ÀÖ´Ù (»öÀÇ °­µµ(intensity)¿¡ µû¶ó, ¶§¶§·Î 1Â÷ »öÁ¶, 2Â÷ »öÁ¶, 3Â÷ »öÁ¶, 4Â÷ »öÁ¶¶ó°í ÇÑ´Ù).

Diamond Colour Grading

  • <D>°¡ ÃÖ»óµî±Þ (A, B ¶Ç´Â C´Â ¾ø´Ù)À̸ç <Z>´Â ÃÖÇϵî±ÞÀÌ´Ù.
  • ½ÇÁ¦ »öÁ¶(tint)ÀÇ ´ÙÀ̾î¸Õµå´Â ƯÁ¤ »öÀÇ ´ÙÀ̾î¸ÕµåÀÌ´Ù : Æҽà »ö(fancy colour). »öÁ¶°¡ ÀÖ´Â µ¹(Z)¿Í ƯÁ¤ÇÑ »öÀÌ ÀÖ´Â µ¹ »çÀÌÀÇ °æ°è´Â Ç¥ÁØ »ö µî±Þ ¼¼Æ®(set)¸¦ »ç¿ëÇÏ¿© Æò°¡ÇÒ ¼ö ÀÖ´Ù. Á¶»ç(irradiation)°ú ¿­Ã³¸®(heat treatment)¿¡ ÀÇÇؼ­ ÀΰøÀûÀ¸·Î º¯°æÇÑ »öÀÇ ´ÙÀ̾î¸Õµå¸¦ Á¶½ÉÇØ¾ß ÇÑ´Ù (Èí¼ö ½ºÆåÆ®·³(absorption spectrum)°ú Çü±¤(fluorescence)¿¡ ÀÇÇؼ­ Áõ¸íµÈ´Ù).
  • ´ÙÀ̾î¸Õµå Æҽà »öÀº 5 °¡ÁöÀÇ ´Ù¸¥ »öÁ¶µéÀ» Áö´Ñ´Ù : ¹àÀº ÆÒ½Ã(fancy light), ÆÒ½Ã(fancy), °­ÇÑ ÆÒ½Ã(fancy intense), £Àº ÆÒ½Ã(fancy deep)°ú ¼±¸íÇÑ ÆÒ½Ã(fancy vivid). ¿¹¸¦ µé¸é, ¸¸¾à¿¡ ´ÙÀ̾î¸Õµå »öÀÌ È²»ö(yellow) À̶ó¸é (´ÙÀ̾î¸Õµå¿¡´Â ¸ðµç »öµé - û»ö, Àû»ö, ºÐÈ«»ö, Ȳ»ö, µîµî... - ÀÌ ´Ù ÀÖ´Ù), ¹àÀº Ȳ»ö Æҽà ´ÙÀ̾î¸Õµå(fancy light yellow diamond) ¶Ç´Â °­ÇÑ È²»ö Æҽà ´ÙÀ̾î¸Õµå(fancy intense yellow diamond)ÀÌ´Ù.    
  • Diamond Colour Grading

    ¹«»ö

    °ÅÀÇ ¹«»ö

    ¿¯Àº

    ¾ÆÁÖ ¹àÀº

    ¹àÀº

    ¹àÀº

    ÆÒ½Ã

    °­ÇÑ

    £Àº

    ¼±¸íÇÑ

  • ÀΰøÀûÀ¸·Î º¯ÇüÇÑ »öÀ» Áö´Ñ ´ÙÀ̾î¸Õµå´Â ÀÎÁõ¼­ÀÇ ºñ°í<<Comments>> ¶õ¿¡ ¾ð±ÞµÇ¾î¾ß ÇÑ´Ù. »ö °­È­ <<Colour enhance>>¶ó´Â ´Ü¾î¸¦ ãÀ» ¼ö ÀÖÀ» °ÍÀÌ´Ù. 

 »ö µî±Þ (Colour Grading Scale)

GIA

Antwerp

E.O.

AGS

CIBJO - IDC

Scandin. Std.

Colourless
(¹«»ö)

D

0+

95

0

Exceptional White +
(¶Ù¾î³­ ¹é»ö +)

River
(¸®¹ö)

E

0

90

1

Exceptional White
(¶Ù¾î³­ ¹é»ö)

F

1+

85

2

Rare White +
(µå¹® ¹é»ö +)

Top Wesselton
(ž ¿þ¼¿ÅÏ)

Near
Colourless
(°ÅÀÇ ¹«»ö)

G

1

80

3

Rare White
(µå¹® ¹é»ö)

H

2

75

4

White
(¹é»ö)

Wesselton
(¿þ¼¿ÅÏ)

I

3

70

5

Slightly
Tinted White
(¾à°£ »öÁ¶°¡ ÀÖ´Â ¹é»ö)

Top Crystal
(ž Å©¸®½ºÅÐ)

J

4

60

Crystal
(Å©¸®½ºÅÐ)

Faint
Yellow
(¿¯Àº Ȳ»ö)

K

5

55

6

Tinted White
(»öÁ¶°¡ ÀÖ´Â ¹é»ö)

Top Cape
(ž ÄÉÀÌÇÁ)

L

6

50

M

7

45

7

Tinted Colour
(»öÁ¶°¡ ÀÖ´Â »ö)

Cape
(ÄÉÀÌÇÁ)

Very
Light
Yellow
(¾ÆÁÖ ¹àÀº Ȳ»ö)

N

8

40

O

9

35

8

Light Yellow
(¶óÀÌÆ® ¿»·Î¿ì)

P

10

 

Q

11

R

12

9

Light
Yellow
(¹àÀº Ȳ»ö)

S

13

Yellow
(¿»·Î¿ì)

T

14

U

15

V

16

10

W

17

X

18

Y

19

Z

20

  • 0.46 ij·µ(carat)ÀÌ»óÀÇ ´ÙÀ̾î¸Õµåµé¿¡ ´ëÇÑ »ö µî±Þ
  • GIA : Gemmological Institute of America
  • Antwerp : Belgium
  • E. O. : Extrême-Orient (±Øµ¿)
  • AGS : American Gem Society
  • CIBJO : Confédération Internationale de la Bijouterie, Joaillerie, Orfèverie. International Confederation of Jewelry, Silverware, Diamonds, Pearls and Stones.
  • IDC : International Diamond Council
  • Scandin. Std.: Scandinavian Standard

 

 Çü±¤ (Fluorescence)

  • Çü±¤(fluorescence)´Â ´ÙÀ̾î¸ÕµåÀÇ ºû¿¡³ÊÁö(energy)¿Í ¿øÀÚµé »çÀÌÀÇ »óÈ£ÀÛ¿ë¿¡ ÀÇÇؼ­ ¹ß»ýÇÑ´Ù. ´ëºÎºÐÀÇ °æ¿ìµé¿¡ À־, Çü±¤Àº û»öÀÌ´Ù.
  • Çü±¤ÀÇ Á¤µµ´Â Àڿܼ±(ultraviolet rays)¸¦ ÂØ¿© Ç¥ÁØ Çü±¤ ´ÙÀ̾î¸Õµåµé µî±Þ°ú ´ÙÀ̾î¸Õµå¸¦ ºñ±³ÇÏ¿© °áÁ¤ÇÑ´Ù. ¸¸¾à¿¡ ´ÙÀ̾î¸Õµå°¡ °è¼Ó ¾îµÎ¿ì¸é, Çü±¤ÀÌ ¾Æ´Ï´Ù.
  • ´ÙÀ̾î¸ÕµåÀÇ Çü±¤Àº ÀÎÁõ¼­ÀÇ ´Ù¸¥ Ư¼ºµé°ú ÇÔ²² ±â·ÏµÇ¾î¾ß ÇÑ´Ù:
    - ¾øÀ½ (None or Nil)
    - ¾ÆÁÖ ¾à°£(û»ö) (Very slight (blue))
    - ¾à°£ (û»ö) ¶Ç´Â ¿¯Àº (Slight (blue) or Faint)
    - Áß°£ (û»ö) (Medium (blue))
    - °­ÇÑ (û»ö) (Strong (blue))
    - ¾ÆÁÖ °­ÇÑ (û»ö) (Very strong (blue))

  • ¾à°£ Çü±¤Àº ´ÙÀ̾î¸Õµå D, E¿Í FÀÇ °¡Ä¡¸¦ ¶³¾î¶ß¸°´Ù. ¾à°£ Çü±¤Àº G¿Í °°°Å³ª ¾Æ·¡ÀÇ ´ÙÀ̾î¸ÕµåµéÀÇ °¡Ä¡¸¦ Áõ°¡½ÃŲ´Ù.

6) »ö (Color)

 °ü·Ã ÀÚ·á >>>  ¿ø¼® >>> 16. ±¤ÅÃµÈ ´ÙÀ̾î¸Õµå (Polished Diamond)

1) Ư¼º (Characteristics)
2) ±â°èÀû ¼ºÁú (Mechanical Properties)
3) ¿¬¸¶°¡°ø (Cut)
4) ij·µÁß·® (Carat Weight)
5) Åõ¸íµµ (Clarity)
6) »ö (Color)

7) ó¸® (Treatment)
8) À¯»ç, ¸ðÁ¶ (Simulant, Imitation)
9) °Å·¡ (Trade)
10) ±¤ÅÃµÈ ´ÙÀ̾î¸Õµå ±¸ÀÔÀ» À§ÇÑ Á¶¾ð
11) ¾îµð¼­ »ì °ÍÀΰ¡? (Where to buy it?)
12) ´ÙÀ̾î¸Õµå °¡°Ý °è»ê¹ý (How to calculate diamond prices)

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